It is said that the Rolwaling is a mirror of the Khumbu 40 years ago, before the people there abandoned most of their traditional activities and developed everything for tourism. I'm not sure about that, but the Rolwaling is a fast-changing region that was hit hard by the earthquake. It is also inhabited by Sherpa … Continue reading Rolwaling


Tashi Labsta La

Tashi Labsta was the third, and most likely the final, out of the five high and technical passes we would cover on the high route. The pass is notorious because of a high danger of rockfall and the perilous glaciers that border it to the west. It was the final obstacle on the way to … Continue reading Tashi Labsta La

Through the Khumbu

My relationship to the Everest Base Camp Trek is ambiguous. Though the Solokhumbu is a fascinating and fast-changing region characterized by its hospitable Sherpa inhabitants, the never-ending trekker's line, the bad mountain etiquette and the ill prepared/complaining/obnoxious tourists made me let out a sigh of relief when we left the area and started heading for … Continue reading Through the Khumbu

Three cols that became two and a concussion: Sherpani Col – West Col – Mera La

Maybe sometimes it is better not to know what to expect, to expect the unexpected, and to just go with the flow. "To remember that your present situation is not your final destination, that the best is yet to come, and that fortune favours the brave." (Quotes found inside Yak Hotel, Makalu BC). With no … Continue reading Three cols that became two and a concussion: Sherpani Col – West Col – Mera La

The promised land: Num to Makalu Base Camp

Never ever have I been as relieved to reach a place as I was when I got out of the jeep into the streets of Num. After a small quest to restock on cookies, kerosene and a welcome meal of fried noodles with eggs, we were ready to start afresh. A local man led us … Continue reading The promised land: Num to Makalu Base Camp

Brutalised and shattered: Taplejung to Num

The way to Num was long, hard and full of surprises. I'd like to explain, first of all, that I will be talking a lot from the I perspective in my writings from the Great Himalaya Trail. This is because, even though we are a team, at the same time it is a very personal … Continue reading Brutalised and shattered: Taplejung to Num

The Great Himalaya Trail, chapter 1: rumbles in Kathmandu

Back in Belgium, I got the feeling that the universe did not seem to be aligned for this trip. Never have I been seriously injured before, yet 3 weeks before flying to Kathmandu I took a muscle in my ankle. Wherever I needed to get to in Belgium had road diversions or cancelled trains. While … Continue reading The Great Himalaya Trail, chapter 1: rumbles in Kathmandu

Aarn Guiding Light: review

Our story with Aarn starts on Te Araroa in New Zealand. When we first started encountering these packs we frowned at them with great skepticism, wondering how awkward it must be walking with those pockets on the front of your body. We didn’t really understand the point of it, and we decided we did not … Continue reading Aarn Guiding Light: review

Great Himalaya Trail: Logistics

SEASON September - January/February Start in Kanchenjunga end of September, we might still hit the last of monsoon season. It will be very busy by the time we hit the Everest region (this might create problems finding accommodation in teahouses, so we should take tents) and Langtang. For the vast majority of trails we are … Continue reading Great Himalaya Trail: Logistics

Great Himalaya Trail: Gear List

Eef's gear list for the GHT: Clothing: Underwear: Devold Breeze Hipster Underpants (x3) + Devold Wool Fleece Bra, SheThinks underwear Base layers: Devold Breeze t-shirt, Devold Breeze shirt, Devold Breeze long john's Extra warm wool: Devold Alnes half zip neck, Devold Alnes Long John's (in KTM for first part of the hike) Wind jacket: Montbell Tachyon … Continue reading Great Himalaya Trail: Gear List